Tampere Hacklab Wiki

pieni_cnc-jyrsin - [Piirilevyn jyrsiminen käyttäen KiCad ja pcb2gcode]

Eero Fadjukoff (eero_fadjukoff.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-04-20T12:17:59+00:00

@@ -26,25 +26,30 @@
  
  
  ====== Piirilevyn jyrsiminen käyttäen KiCad ja pcb2gcode ======
  
-   - Suunnittele piirilevy esim. KiCad-ohjelmistolla ja luo .gbr ja .drl tiedostot.
+   - Suunnittele ensin piirilevy KiCad-ohjelmistolla ja luo sitten Gerber (.grb) ja Drill (.drl) tiedostot.
      - File -> Fabrication Outputs -> Gerbers
      - Varmista että "Use extended X2 format" ei ole valittuna.
-     - Valitse "Output directory" ja paina "Plot".
-     - Paina "Generate Drill Files" ja paina "Generate"
-   - Lataa ja käännä ohjeiden mukaisesti [[https://github.com/pcb2gcode/pcb2gcode|pcb2gcode]] (TODO: käännä ja laita jollekin koneelle labilla) 
-   - Luo "millproject" niminen tiedosto samaan kansioon missä .gbr ja .drl tiedostot. 
+     - Valitse haluamasi kansio kohtaan "Output directory"
+     - Paina "Plot" nappia luodaksesi Gerber tiedostot.
+     - Avaa "Generate Drill Files".
+     - Varmista että formaatti on Excellon ja "PTH and NPTH in single file" on valittuna.
+     - Paina "Generate" nappia luodaksesi Drill tiedostot.
+   - Asenna [[https://github.com/pcb2gcode/pcb2gcode|pcb2gcode]] koneellesi ohjeiden mukaisesti. (Asennettuna loungen koneella)
+   - Luo "millproject" niminen tiedosto samaan kansioon mihin loit Gerber ja Drill tiedostot. 
      - Kirjoita sinne kaikki tarvittavat asetukset, löytyy: [[https://github.com/pcb2gcode/pcb2gcode/wiki]]
-     - Esimerkki/pohja tiedosto löytyy CNC-koneen läppärin työpöydän PCB kansiosta, jossa myös ohjeita.
-   - Aja pcb2gcode kansiossa jossa luodut tiedostot ovat.
-   - Siirrä luodut .ngc tiedostot CNC-koneelle
+     - Esimerkki/pohja tiedosto löytyy CNC-koneen läppärin työpöydän PCB kansiosta, jossa myös ohjeita. (TODO: ei taida olla kovin hyviä siellä)
+   - Avaa komentorivi kansiossa, jossa luodut tiedostot ovat
+   - Aja pcb2gcode.
+   - Tarkista että tuloste näyttää hyvältä ja tarkista luodut kuvat virheiden varalta.
+   - Siirrä luodut G-code (.ngc) tiedostot CNC-koneelle
      - Suosittelen työpöydän PCB kansiota, luo oma kansio projektillesi ja poista kun olet tehnyt.
-   - Käynnistä CNC ohjeiden mukaisesti.
-   - Varmista oikea terä.
-   - Valitse front.ngc, valitse nollakohta ja tee autolevel.
-   - Aja gcode, toista kohdasta 7. muillekin tiedostoille.
- 
+   - Käynnistä CNC-jyrsin edellisen osion ohjeiden mukaisesti.
+   - Vaihda jyrsimeen haluamasi terä ja varmista, että tunnistejohdin on kytketty piirilevyyn.
+   - Valitse ensimmäinen tiedosto, etsi sopiva nollakohta ja aja automaattinen tasaus. (TODO: kirjoita ohjeet)
+   - Aja G-code, jonka jälkeen voit toistaa kohdasta 9. alkaen muillekkin luomillesi tiedostoille. 
+     - Muista muuttaa automaattisen tasauksen parametrejä, ettei terä hajoa painaessaan piirilevyn keskelle.
  
  ======= 2D-/3D-jyrsiminen =======
  
    - Ensimmäiseksi tarvitaan malli minkä perusteella jyrsintää aiotaan suorittaa (esim. 2D=DXF, 3D=STL)

olkiluoto3torttu_2025 - created

Erkki Hietaranta (erkki.hietaranta_gmail.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-04-17T05:30:21+00:00

@@ -1 +1 @@
- #REDIRECT en:projekteja:olkiluoto3torttu_2025|Olkiluoto3torttu 2025
+ #REDIRECT en:projekteja:olkiluoto3torttu_2025

olkiluoto3torttu_2025 - created

Erkki Hietaranta (erkki.hietaranta_gmail.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-04-17T05:29:46+00:00

@@ -1 +1,100 @@
+ ====== Olkiluoto3torttu 2025 ======
  
+ It is the third time we have celebrated Olkiluoto3 päivä. I overshot the original goal of making the OL3 torttu lactose-free and made it vegan this time. I'm not super happy with the vegan white chocolate - at that price it would make sense to switch to something different, like mantelijauhe. Anyway, here is the recipe:
+ 
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:cake_1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:cake_2.jpg?300}}
+ 
+ ==== Ingredients: ====
+   * digestive biscuits 585g (Xtra Digestive täysjyvävehnäkeksi are cheap and good)
+   * vegaani valkosuklaa 250g (I used one from dammenberg suklaatehdas. It was in "american" section in k-market for some reason)
+   * hasselpähkinä (~1kg)
+   * flora plant cream 31% 1410g
+   * aito kaurajuoma 200g (replacement for milk)
+   * musta tahini 184g (likely unavailable locally - I bought it online from Portugal this time)
+   * sokeri 200g
+   * water
+   * agar agar
+ 
+ ==== Equipment: ====
+   * A fridge and a freezer. Enough free space in the freezer to remove one of the drawers
+   * An oven and a baking tray
+   * A square, adjustable baking frame - I used the 30x30cm TÅRTBAK from IKEA
+   * Baking paper
+   * Some thick plastic foil/sheets: they are used to separate the baking frame from the cake. Without it opening the frame will likely damage the cake. Also the cake ended up being a bit taller than the frame, so without it you need to scale the amounts of ingredients down by ~10%. I've cut 4 pieces from stiff document sleeves (I have a lot of spare ones in case you want to try the recipe).
+   * A chopper (for making the hazelnut paste and crushing cookies)
+   * Some tool to make a whipped cream with
+   * A large bowl (having more than one will be useful)
+   * An electronic kitchen scale and volume measuring equipment
+ 
+ ==== Preparation: ====
+ 
+ === Hazelnut paste: ===
+   * Roast the hazelnuts: you can use temperature between 150-175°C, the higher the quicker is the process, but also the easier it is to overdo the roasting. The peels should crack and the nuts should get light brown/orangey in color. To monitor the process, check what do they look like on the inside and taste them.
+   * Remove the peels from the nuts (you don't need to be very thorough, mixing the nuts in a towel is enough). Let them cool a little bit and put them in the chopper. After some minutes of chopping you should produce hazelnut butter. You probably want to do it in 2 or 3  batches, depending on the size of the chopper.
+   * You can prepare the paste ahead of time and keep it in the fridge.
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:hazelnuts1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:hazelnuts2.jpg?300}}
+ 
+ === The base: ===
+   * Put 480g (32 cookies, if you use the ones I've listed) biscuits into the chopper and mix/chop well.
+   * Transfer to a bowl and mix in 154g of black tahini
+   * Put a baking sheet on the baking tray, and put the baking frame on top. Depending on the shape of the tray you make not be able to use the maximum size of the frame, but it should be close enough.
+   * Put the tahini-biscuit mix into the frame and spread evenly.
+   * Bake in 150°C for 10-15 minutes. This is just to solidify the mix.
+   * Allow it to cool down outside of the oven
+   * Install the plastic sheets - we do it now, because they would be destroyed in the oven
+   * Put the whole thing into the freezer (with the baking tray). Just remove one of the drawers and put the baking tray in
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:cookies1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:cookies2.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:frame1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:frame2.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:frame3.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:frame4.jpg?300}}
+ 
+ === The topping: ===
+   * Prepare the same way as the base, just don't use the frame - the topping will be sprinkled on top of the cake at the end.
+ 
+ === Brown layers (x3) ===
+   * [you can create a mix of hazelnut paste, cream and sugar in one big batch, then just separately whip the required amount of cream for each layer, and prep and add the agar]
+   * each layer calls for: 310ml of cream, 266g of the hazelnut paste, 65g of sugar and ~4.5g of agar powder
+   * separate 30ml of the cream, and use the remaining 280ml to make a whipped cream. Store the whipped cream in the fridge.
+   * add the 65g of sugar to the 30ml of cream and put on low heat/water bath (I used a metal mug, which I put on an frying pan with some water to buffer the heat and avoid burning the cream). Mix to dissolve most of the sugar.
+   * Add the cream-sugar mix to the 266g of hazelnut paste, mix well.
+   * Add 1/4 of the whipped cream to the hazelnut paste and mix gently
+   * Combine the paste with the rest of the cream
+   * Prepare agar: combine it with ~22g of **cold** water (!), mix to dissolve, and heat it up until boiling.
+   * Mix the agar solution into the cream/hazelnut by pouring it in while mixing (use a mixer - agar solidifies very quickly)
+   * Remove the baking tray from the freezer, put the mix into the baking frame and spread somewhat evenly - it won't be perfect, don't worry too much
+   * Put the tray back into the freezer and give it some time to solidify (~30 minutes)
+   * Start working on the next layer
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:brown_sugar.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:cream.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:brown_cream.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:agar_1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:layers_1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:layers_2.jpg?300}}
+ 
+ === The white layers (x2) ===
+   * each layer calls for: 100ml of kaurajuoma, 240ml of cream, 128g white chocolate, 3.25g of agar
+   * whip the cream (all of it)
+   * melt chocolate in the kaurajuoma using microwave of a water bath, mix well
+   * let it cool a bit and mix it gently with the whipped cream - the mix will be more of a liquid than the hazelnut, don't worry
+   * prepare agar like before and mix with the chocolate/cream mix like before
+   * Remove the baking tray from the freezer, pour the mix, help it to spread in the corners
+   * Put the tray back into the freezer and give it some time to solidify (~30 minutes)
+   * Start working on the next layer
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:white_chocolate1.jpg?300}}
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:white_chocolate2.jpg?300}}
+ 
+ === Finishing touches: ===
+   * once the last layer solidified sprinkle it with the topping
+   * transfer the cake from freezer into fridge the night before serving (idk how long it takes to defrost, this was enough when serving in the late afternoon)
+ {{:projekteja:ol3t2025:topping.jpg?300}}
+ 
+ === Dietary info: ===
+   * fat: 31.5% (saturated fat: 11.7%)
+   * carbohydrates: 22.5% (12.9% sugar)
+   * fiber: 3.3%
+   * protein: 4.9%
+   * salt: 0.24%

labiverkko - [Tulostimet]

Julius Jokikokko (tibiabone_proton.me@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-03-18T10:58:02+00:00

@@ -116,9 +116,9 @@
      * Osta ainakin uutta paperia tilalle.\\
      * Ota huomioon että tulostimen väriaine on myös merkittävä kuluerä isommissa tulostuksissa.
         * Värisivu 0,30 €/kpl
         * Mustavalkosivu 0,06 €/kpl
-    
+   * Osaa myös kopioida ja skannata.

jasenen_ohje - [Viestintä] pikalinkki listalle liittymiseen

Wiki admin (wikiadmin@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-03-11T19:25:02+00:00

@@ -67,9 +67,9 @@
  ===== Viestintä =====
  
    * Labilla käytetään pääsääntöisesti kahta pikaviestinkanavaa: toinen yleisempään jutusteluun ja toinen enemmän labin käytännön asioista keskusteluun. Ohjeet kanaville liittymisestä sivulla [[fi:palvelut:verkko#Pikaviestinkanavat]].
  
-   * Kaikkia jäseniä suositellaan liittymään labin [[fi:palvelut:verkko#Sähköpostilista|sähköpostilistalle]]
+   * Kaikkia jäseniä suositellaan liittymään labin sähköpostilitalle lähettämällä sähköposti [[mailto>ecartis@freelists.org?&subject=subscribe hs.the5thwave|tästä linkistä]]. Tarkemmat ohjeet wikin sivulla [[fi:palvelut:verkko#Sähköpostilista|sähköpostilista]]
  
    * [[fi:palvelut:verkko:discourse|Discourse]] on Hacklab Finland ry ylläpitämä kaikkien suomen hacklabien yhteinen foorumi.
  
  ===== Jäsenyyden lopettaminen =====

poker-table-topper - created

Aaro Perämaa (aaro.peramaa_gmail.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-02-13T09:18:18+00:00

@@ -1 +1,58 @@
+ ===== Poker table topper =====
+ 
+ Right after I became a member, a friend of mine suggested holding a poker night. We haven't played poker before, but I felt like the ambience is very important for a good experience. We needed real chips, whiskey and a poker table. Normal dining table would not do. I had two weeks to learn about wood working and produce a poker playing table.
+ 
+ To cut down on the work, I decided to go for a table topper instead of a full table. Table topper is a board that sits on top of another full table, providing a new surface. I also approached the project as a learning opportunity, allowing for some mistakes so that I could deliver the result in time.
+ 
+ The design itself is simple: A backing board, made from fiberboard or veneer is the base. On it, first a soft polyurethane mat is adhered with glue and staples. The PU layer provides a softer and bouncier feeling. Then speed cloth is stretched on top to provide the playing surface (This was the most expensive part, Eurokangas costs about 39€/meter). Lastly, a wooden rim is made around the board to provide stiffness and a lip that prevents the topper from sliding around on the table.
+ 
+ 
+ ==== Construction ====
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:baseboard.jpg?250}} 
+ 
+ The base fiber board was very poor quality and soft, but it didn't matter as it was hidden and non-structural. Cut into shape 132x82 with a carpet knife, to match my 130x80 IKEA table.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:subsurface.jpg?250}} 
+ 
+ Soft mat was glued and stapled on to provide a softer feeling. Later, the spray contact glue separated. Perhaps I used the wrong type of glue on this.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:routing.jpg?250}}
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:rim-fit.jpg?250}}
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:corner-fit.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ The rim was made from a single board, first cut into smaller strips. Then a U-shaped groove was routed into the middle to catch the edge of the base board. Edges were rounded on the router and joins were cut with a band saw. I then realized that the rounding should've been done after gluing together. Now there is rounding in the corner itself, which I tried to fill in with wood filler but the results were poor.
+ 
+ Because of the rim design, the fabrics had to be prepared before gluing, sanding and finishing. This was a big design mistake.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:speedcloth.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ Next the speedcloth was stretched and stapled around the backside of the board. I should've paid more attention here. Once the table was ready, the fabric was still a little bit loose and not fully tight as you would wish. I covered the fabrics with paper and tape to protect them from sanding dust and wood dye + lacquer.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:gluing.jpg?250}}
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:finishing.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ Then the rim was assembled around the base board and glued in place. The corners were given final sanding and wood dye was used to make it a little prettier. I also applied one coat of lacquer, but the long drying time meant I did not have time to do multiple coats like you are supposed to. In the end the wood remained rather raw, but worked well enough. Surprisingly none of the glue or dye leaked onto the fabric.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:result.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ I finished the table one day before the game, and we had a great time. I lost 30€.
+ 
+ 
+ === Mistakes ===
+ Biggest mistake I made was in the design of the rim. Instead of a U-groove that holds onto the board, I should have gone for a simpler L-shape. This way, attaching the wood and base board could have been deferred right to the end. It would have been much easier to handle the rim for sanding, finishing and routing.
+ 
+ <code>
+  ___________
+ |           |
+ | Rim ______|
+ |    | ____________...
+ |    || Base board 
+ |    ||____________...
+ |    | ____________...
+ |____|| 
+       | Table surface
+       |
+       :
+ </code>

poker-table-topper - created

Aaro Perämaa (aaro.peramaa_gmail.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-02-13T09:17:45+00:00

@@ -1 +1,58 @@
+ ===== Poker table topper =====
+ 
+ Right after I became a member, a friend of mine suggested holding a poker night. We haven't played poker before, but I felt like the ambience is very important for a good experience. We needed real chips, whiskey and a poker table. Normal dining table would not do. I had two weeks to learn about wood working and produce a poker playing table.
+ 
+ To cut down on the work, I decided to go for a table topper instead of a full table. Table topper is a board that sits on top of another full table, providing a new surface. I also approached the project as a learning opportunity, allowing for some mistakes so that I could deliver the result in time.
+ 
+ The design itself is simple: A backing board, made from fiberboard or veneer is the base. On it, first a soft polyurethane mat is adhered with glue and staples. The PU layer provides a softer and bouncier feeling. Then speed cloth is stretched on top to provide the playing surface (This was the most expensive part, Eurokangas costs about 39€/meter). Lastly, a wooden rim is made around the board to provide stiffness and a lip that prevents the topper from sliding around on the table.
+ 
+ 
+ ==== Construction ====
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:baseboard.jpg?250}} 
+ 
+ The base fiber board was very poor quality and soft, but it didn't matter as it was hidden and non-structural. Cut into shape 132x82 with a carpet knife, to match my 130x80 IKEA table.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:subsurface.jpg?250}} 
+ 
+ Soft mat was glued and stapled on to provide a softer feeling. Later, the spray contact glue separated. Perhaps I used the wrong type of glue on this.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:routing.jpg?250}}
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:rim-fit.jpg?250}}
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:corner-fit.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ The rim was made from a single board, first cut into smaller strips. Then a U-shaped groove was routed into the middle to catch the edge of the base board. Edges were rounded on the router and joins were cut with a band saw. I then realized that the rounding should've been done after gluing together. Now there is rounding in the corner itself, which I tried to fill in with wood filler but the results were poor.
+ 
+ Because of the rim design, the fabrics had to be prepared before gluing, sanding and finishing. This was a big design mistake.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:speedcloth.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ Next the speedcloth was stretched and stapled around the backside of the board. I should've paid more attention here. Once the table was ready, the fabric was still a little bit loose and not fully tight as you would wish. I covered the fabrics with paper and tape to protect them from sanding dust and wood dye + lacquer.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:gluing.jpg?250}}
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:finishing.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ Then the rim was assembled around the base board and glued in place. The corners were given final sanding and wood dye was used to make it a little prettier. I also applied one coat of lacquer, but the long drying time meant I did not have time to do multiple coats like you are supposed to. In the end the wood remained rather raw, but worked well enough. Surprisingly none of the glue or dye leaked onto the fabric.
+ 
+ {{:fi:projekteja:poker-table-topper:result.jpg?250}}
+ 
+ I finished the table one day before the game, and we had a great time. I lost 30€.
+ 
+ 
+ === Mistakes ===
+ Biggest mistake I made was in the design of the rim. Instead of a U-groove that holds onto the board, I should have gone for a simpler L-shape. This way, attaching the wood and base board could have been deferred right to the end. It would have been much easier to handle the rim for sanding, finishing and routing.
+ 
+ <code>
+  ___________
+ |           |
+ | Rim ______|
+ |    | ____________...
+ |    || Base board 
+ |    ||____________...
+ |    | ____________...
+ |____|| 
+       | Table surface
+       |
+       :
+ </code>

vakuumivalulaite - created

Matias Moilanen (moilanenjoonamatias_gmail.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-02-05T17:45:04+00:00

@@ -1 +1 @@
- 
+ Work in progress

lampokasittelyuuni - created

Matias Moilanen (moilanenjoonamatias_gmail.com@undisclosed.example.com) — 2026-02-05T17:38:40+00:00

@@ -1 +1 @@
- 
+ Work in progress