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--- tyokaluja:en:sla-printer [26.06.2022 13:17] – created Pekka Oinas
+++ tyokaluja:en:sla-printer [23.11.2024 16:04] (current) – Matias Moilanen
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-//This article is a work in progress//
+//Suomenkielinen artikkeli löytyy [[tyokaluja:sla-tulostin|täältä]].//
-====== Elegoo Mars SLA-printer (resin printer) ======
+Read this and additionally, before use, review the printed guides.
-{{:tyokaluja:elegoo-mars.jpeg?200|}}
+=====Formlabs Form 2 SLA Printer=====
+\\ The Hacklab has a Formlabs Form 2 stereolithography (SLA) printer. The printer is located in the paint room in a fume hood.
-The hacklab has a first-generation Elegoo Mars SLA resin printer. The printer is located inside a fume hood in the painting room.
+====Printer Specifications====
-===== Printer Specifications =====
+  * Printing area: 145 x 145 x 175 mm
+  * X/Y resolution: 140 microns (0.14 mm)
+  * Layer height: 25, 50, 100, 200 microns (0.025, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2 mm)
+  * UV wavelength: 405 nm
-**Printing area:** 120 x 68 x 155 mm\\
+====Model Preparation====
-**X/Y Resolution:** 0.047 mm (2560 x 1440 pixels)\\
+\\ You can print any 3D model with the printer as long as it fits within the printing area. The most common file format is STL. Models can be found online or created using CAD software, Blender, etc. Before printing, the model must be sliced using slicing software. This is done with the PreForm software, which is specifically designed for Formlabs printers.
-**Layer height:** Depends on resin; usually 0.05 mm\\
-===== Preparing the Model =====
+====Creating Supports====
+\\ Creating supports in the PreForm software is done as follows: Upload the STL model to the software and use the tools provided by the program to generate supports. PreForm can optimize the model's rotation to minimize the amount of support needed.
-You can print any 3D model as long as it fits in the print area. The most common file format is STL. Models can be found online or created using CAD software, Blender, etc.
+ ====Resin Safety and Hygiene====
+\\ WHEN HANDLING RESIN, ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. NO EXCEPTIONS. Preferably, choose glasses that also protect the sides of your eyes.\\ Resin is generally quite toxic (as the warnings on the bottle indicate). Always wear safety glasses when working with the printer, do not touch the resin with bare hands, and especially do not get it in your eyes or mouth.\\ Over time, resin can be allergenic, and contact may develop into a resin allergy even if you didn't have one before.
-Models must be prepared using a slicing application before the printer can print them. ChiTuBox is the application used for slicing, but it is bad at auto-generating supports (it generates far too many of them, which wastes plastic and means a lot of extra cleanup work for you). If you need autogenerated supports, PrusaSlicer is far better at them and can also optimize the rotation of the printed body for minimum supporting. Both applications can be found on at least some of the computers at the lab (try the one next to the southern windows in the lounge labeled "Dragon").
+====Preparing the Printer====
+\\ Turn on the printer using the power switch at the back. Lift the protective cover.\\ Check the resin tank at the bottom of the printer. Resin stays good under the cover for several weeks, but it can settle. Gently mix the resin before use. If the resin looks uniform, still mix it; it may just be pretending.\\ If the resin in the tank has gone bad, it needs to be replaced. Resin that has sat for a long time forms a layer at the bottom of the tank and prevents light from passing through. Before starting the print, empty the filter of old resin and check the condition of the film.\\ Make sure that the build plate, tank, and wiper are properly set and tightened.\\ Replace the protective cover on the printer.
-To generate supports in PrusaSlicer, make sure it is in SLA mode by selecting an SLA printer (either the custom Elegoo Mars profile or the Prusa SL1 profile). Then import your STL like you normally would, and use the tool palette on the left side of the screen to rotate it and add supports. Once you're done, go to File -> Export -> Export plate as STL including supports and save the file somewhere. You can then open this STL in ChiTuBox to finish the slicing.
+====Printing====
+\\ Select the file you want to print from the touchscreen. Ensure in the preview that it is the correct file and press start.\\ Monitor the first few layers of printing to ensure everything is okay.
-Selecting the correct printer profile (Elegoo Mars) and the correct resin profile in ChiTuBox will give you workable default settings, but verify them by clicking on the big Settings button on the right anyway. One thing you will likely want to change here is the hollowing & infill setting -- if the model is already hollowed, make sure the wall thickness on this page matches the wall thickness of the model or else ChiTuBox will generate detached infill structures and probably ruin your print. If there is no profile for the resin you are using, consult the resin bottle.
+====Removing the Print====
+\\ When the printing is complete, the build plate will rise to the maximum height and remain there.
-After the model is sliced, put it on the USB stick found attached to the printer, then plug the USB stick into the USB extension cable next to the printer.
+====Cleaning the Print====
+\\ Check that there is enough isopropanol in the washer.\\ Unlock the build plate by lifting the lever on top. Move the build plate with the print to the washer.\\ Once the washing is complete, remove the print from the washer and detach it from the build plate.\\ Place the print in the curing station. Start the curing process.\\ Once curing is complete, the print is ready.
-===== Working with the Printer =====
+====Cleaning Up====
+\\ Clean the used tools and build plate. Clean up any plastic pieces and splashes that may have scattered around. Keep the workspace tidy and safe.
-==== Resin Safety & Hygiene ====
+====ProtoArt Universal Cartridge====
+\\ A ProtoArt Universal Cartridge has been acquired for the printer, allowing the use of third-party resins without losing the printer's functions (wiper, automatic tank filling, and heating), as in Formlabs’ “open mode.”
+\\ %%https://cartridge.protoart.net/install/software%%
-**ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES WHEN WORKING WITH RESIN. NO EXCUSES.**
+\\ However, this does not completely free us; whenever changing resin types or after printing about 2 liters, this chip needs to be reset using the “cartridge configurator” found at the link above. ProtoArt offers 10 resets, and additional resets can be purchased for €45 for 10 resets.
-Resin is generally quite toxic (as the red warning symbols on the bottle suggest). Wear safety glasses at all times when working around the printer, and do not touch the resin with bare skin and definitely do not ingest it. In the short term, the resin causes chemical burns; it will not immediately burn skin, but it //will// immediately burn your eyes and mucous membranes. If you get it on your skin, wipe it off with paper and then wash it off with soap and water immediately. If you get it in your eye, rinse the eye under running water for 15 minutes and go to the hospital ASAP. In the long term, exposure to resin can develop into an allergic sensitivity to it even with no previous history of allergy. This is another reason not to let it come in contact with your skin.
+\\ **When using the Universal Cartridge, always check before starting a print that the bottom valve is not leaking. At the end of printing, check if the valve has let too much resin into the print tank, meaning the resin surface is above the upper line. If so, the bite valve needs to be replaced.** ProtoArt recommends changing the valve approximately every 3 liters. Normally, the valve should only last for one bottle, as the bottles are not designed to be refilled. According to ProtoArt, some bite valves from the CamelBak outdoor equipment manufacturer are suitable for this use.
-In a ventilated area the fumes from the resin are not a major concern and safety sheets for resins generally do not consider respirators necessary. IPA fumes are nastier, though, so if you must spend a long time cleaning up a print, you may want to wear a respirator. The paint room and 3D printing fume hood are ventilated, but the air in there is still stinky enough that a respirator is a good idea if you intend to spend more than 10 minutes in there anyway.
+\\ More information on compatible resins for available resin profiles can be found on many resin manufacturers' websites, for example: %%https://www.liqcreate.com/supportarticles/form1-form2-compatible-resin/%%
-When working with resin and uncured prints, it is good to follow a clean hand & dirty hand hygiene practice. Wear a nitrile glove on one hand; this is the only hand that will ever touch resin, uncured prints, the working ends of tools, the build plate of the printer, and anything else that comes in direct contact with resin. Your other hand is the clean hand; this is the only hand that will ever touch tool handles, the printer or curing machine, or anything else that should not come in direct contact with resin.
-With appropriate precautions resin is easy to work with, so don't be too afraid of it.
-==== Preparing the Printer ====
-Turn the printer on using the power switch on the back side of the printer. Lift off the red plastic cover.
-Make sure there is resin in the resin basin at the bottom. Odds are there already is resin in the basin; this is fine, as the resin will stay good for many days or weeks. However, it separates over time, so you will have to mix the resin in the basin before printing, as well as make sure there aren't any hard bits of resin floating around in it. The easiest way to do this is to wear a nitrile glove and mix the resin with your finger until it becomes uniform in colour (if it appears uniform already, mix it anyway; it could just be pretending).
-If the resin in the basin has gone bad, you'll have to change it. **TODO: how to change the resin**
-Make sure the build plate (the part at the top that dips in and out of the resin) is attached and tightened.
-Set the red plastic cover back over the printer.
-==== Printing ====
-Select the file you want to print on the touchscreen. Verify that the preview looks about right and press start.
-Observe the first couple of layers to make sure everything is going OK. The build plate should descend into the resin, reach the bottom, lift up a little, then descend again to touch the bottom. It will remain there for about 60 seconds (whatever you set the first layer exposure time at). It will then repeat this for another 4 layers (or whatever you set the bottom layer count at). After that each layer will only be exposed for 8 seconds (or whatever you set the exposure time at). If things are still looking alright at this point and there are no weird crunching noises and resin isn't leaking out and the printer isn't on fire, it is safe to leave the printer unattended. You won't be able to actually see the print for a long time anyway as it will be upside down suspended in the resin.
-==== Detaching the Print ====
-Once the print is finished, the build plate will lift out of the resin to its maximum height and stay there.
-At this point put on your safety goggles and wear a nitrile glove on one hand as detailed in the resin hygiene section above. Loosen the big hand screw at the top of the printer using your clean hand, then detach the build plate by pulling it towards yourself -- it will slide off horizontally. The build plate is covered in resin, so only touch it with your gloved dirty hand.
-Using a scraper, carefully detach the part from the build plate. It is alright to scrape the build plate with a metal scraper, but do it gently at a low angle to not leave any deep marks and to avoid damaging your print. Remove any supports from the print and wipe off excess resin using a paper towel.
-==== Cleaning the Print ====
-{{ :tyokaluja:anycubic-wash-and-cure.jpeg?200|}}
-Next to the printer is an Anycubic Wash and Cure machine, which is used for washing and curing prints. Remove the yellow plastic cover of the machine. **Do not touch the cover or any part of the machine or the container with your gloved dirty hand.** Take the lid off the large cleaning fluid (the fluid is isopropyl alcohol) container and place it in the Anycubic. There are little grooves to help you align it, but there is no mechanical connection; the mixer at the bottom is rotated using magnets.
-Put your print in the metal washing rack, then lower the rack into the cleaning fluid container. The handle fits into slots near the top of the machine. Put the yellow plastic cover on the machine. Set the machine to Wash mode using the control panel, and adjust the time to your liking (2 or 4 minutes should be enough). Start the machine and wait for the cleaning program to run. The machine will beep once the program is finished.
-After the program is finished, lift the rack up, remove your print, and then rattle the rack against the edges of the container to get most cleaning fluid and loose pieces of plastic off of it before hanging it back up on the tool rack you found it on. Close the container lid tightly.
-Finish cleaning your print up by hand by wiping off any remaining loose material and drying it using paper towels. Insert the acrylic platter into the Anycubic. It will slot into the axle at the bottom of the machine. Place your print on the acrylic platter and close the machine lid. Set the machine to Cure mode, adjust the timer to 6 minutes and press start. Once the program is done, flip your print upside down to expose the bottom and run it through the cure program again.
-Your print should now be done.
-==== Cleaning Up ====
-Clean every tool you used with isopropyl alcohol and paper towels. Clean both sides of the build plate and reattach it to the printer. Clean off any spills, bits of plastic etc. Put used paper towels and nitrile gloves in the trash. **Replace all the paper towels covering the work surfaces after you're done.** You should leave the printer nicer than you found it.